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                    Haida 
                      HatsTwined 
                      spruce root hats from Alaska and British Columbia feature 
                      beautifully flaring rims and elaborate woven patterns. Painted 
                      crest designs often adorn the finished hat.  Haida 
                      weavers are acknowledged experts in this style, and Haida 
                      hats traditionally have been traded to neighboring groups. 
                      Often, museums identify hats according to the tribe from 
                      which they were collected. Research is showing that neighbors 
                      of the Haida bought Haida-woven unpainted hats and painted 
                      them with designs typical of their own tribes.  Dawn 
                      Glinsmann, University of Washington Ph.D. student in art 
                      history, studies spruce root hats from worldwide collections. 
                      Her goal is to identify specific characteristics associated 
                      with tribal and individual styles of weaving.  Her 
                      collaboration with expert Haida weaversDelores Churchill, 
                      Diane Willard, Isabel Rorick, and Lisa Telfordhas allowed 
                      her to learn the complicated techniques she is examining. 
                      
 click 
                      on a thumbnail image for a larger photo  
                       
 
                    
                     
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 | TWINED 
                          SPRUCE ROOT HAT  Haida-style 
                          weavingThe vertical zigag pattern on the brim of this hat is 
                          called
 "snail's tracks." The "jogs" on 
                          this hat are very subtle, with no abrupt jumps betweenrows, 
                          making it likely that this was woven by a very
 experienced and careful weaver.
 
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 | TWINED 
                          SPRUCE ROOT HAT Haida-style weaving;Kwakwaka'wakw-style painting
 Sue 
                          Devine, a former graduate student at the University 
                          ofWashington, conducted research on Northwest Coast hats
 twenty years ago. She wrote that some hats attributed 
                          to
 Haida weavers may have been woven on Vancouver Island
 by Kwakwaka'wakw women, inspired by Haida models. If
 so, it may be difficult to confirm this.
 
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                          TWINED 
                            SPRUCE ROOT HAT Haida-style weaving;Kwakwaka'wakw-style painting
  
                            A standard design on painted hats is an abstract animal 
                            with asnout on the brim, eyes on the crown, and a tail opposite 
                            the
 snout. Fins or wings are located on the brim between 
                            the
 snout and tail.
 
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                        SPRUCE ROOT HAT Haida-style weaving and painting, collected
 from the Tlingit
  Though collected from the Tlingit, 
                          this hatshows a jog up to the right where the weaver
 changes pattern, a Haida weaver's
 characteristic. Tlingit weavers held their
 baskets in the opposite direction, so their
 hats have a jog down to the right.
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                        SPRUCE ROOT HAT  
                          Haida-style weaving; collected from the TlingitGreenish-blue paint was often applied to hats. Underneath
 the green paint are traces of a design that used black, 
                          yellow,
 and red. Whether it was painted over for aesthetic or
 water-proofing purposes in unknown.
 
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 | TWINED 
                        SPRUCE ROOT HAT Haida-style weaving; Kwakwaka'wakw-style painting
  
                          Like many hats, this one has black fabric ties stitched 
                          to theheadband underneath to hold the hat on the head. The 
                          edge
 of this hat is finished in the same technique that Isabella
 Edenshaw often useda four-strand, two-ridge flat braid.
 However, the raised row above the braid is unlike her 
                          style,
 and no other details in this hat match the techniques 
                          used by
 Edenshaw.
 
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                      |  | TWINED 
                        SPRUCE ROOT HAT Haida-style weaving and painting; collected
 from the Tlingit
  The concentric diamond pattern on this 
                          hatand on No. 6 is called mamatsiki,
 "dragonfly." The painting on this hat shows
 the Haida formline style with connected
 bands of red and black, unlike the
 Kwakwaka'wakw style that has
 disconnected design elements.
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 | TWINED 
                        SPRUCE ROOT HAT Haida-style weaving; painted blue-green
  
                          It appears that this hat was painted blue-green only, 
                          whileNo. 3 had a pattern painted on it, and was then painted
 over. Many Haida-style hats in museum collections have
 this finish, which may have been applied as rainproofing.
 
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 |   TWINED 
                          SPRUCE ROOT HAT Haida-style weaving;Kwakwaka'wakw-style painting; rings from a different 
                          hat
  
                          This hat has been altered from its original form. It 
                          appearsthat parts of two separate hats have been joined together,
 the basketry rings and the crown of the hat (at the 
                          top) have
 been joined to the flaring sides.
 
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 |   TWINED 
                          SPRUCE ROOT HATHaida-style weaving, collected from the
 Tlingit at Fort Tongass, 1899
  
                          Although, the brim on this hat has themamatsiki diamond design much like that
 on the Isabella Edenshaw hat, these are not attributed 
                          to
 her. The raised row of S-twining between
 the crown and brim, along with the complex
 braid at the hat's edge, are not indicative of
 Edenshaw's style.
 
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    _________________________________________________________________________________________________All material ©Burke Museum of Natural 
              History and Culture, 2001
 theburke@u.washington.edu
 
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